Dog Marking Tips

Dog Marking Behavior Tips

Dog marking is an instinctive behavior so it's a normal thing they must do. A dog leaves its scent in urine to tell other dogs a message; it could be about whose territory it is or is about the dog's social order or advertising mating availability. Dogs also use urine marking to show their dominance or to claim something as belonging to them. Some dogs feel the need to lift their leg and pee on all new things that enter your house, shopping bags, visitor’s belongings, new furniture, children's toys etc. Dogs with feelings of insecurity or who have separation anxiety may also mark, as territory marking builds the dog's confidence and petsafe.

Marking is definitely different from peeing. Dogs deposit smaller amount of urine. Marking in the house is usually done to an upright surface such as a doorway, table leg or piece of furniture or new and unfamiliar objects like visitor belongings. Many of these dogs are lacking in confidence and by marking new objects it makes them feel more secure having deposited their own scent on these objects. Dog urine marking is not a toilet training issue but rather an issue concerning a whole range of instinctive behaviors. Although male dogs are more likely to mark urine than females it is not unknown for a female dog to scent mark too. Often a female dog coming into heat or during it will mark to advertise her availability. A dominant female will also mark while smaller breeds tend to pee in the house more than larger dogs. Also two or more dogs living together in the same house who regard each other as the competition are more prone to urine marking. Urine marking can be a dominance issue.

First, prevention is better than cure, neutering and spaying dogs at early age is the most reliable and effective way to stop them from marking, but not infallible. Fixing them will reduce the body’s natural chemicals and hormones that risen by sexual heat. If you have an adult dog neutered, it may take a full year for the male hormones to subside and stop controlling his behavior.

Interrupting and breaking this habit is also an effective way to stop and control. Give a close supervision to stop his/her marking behavior. It may take some days and weeks to at least minimize this behavior and really need intense supervision. Also loud noise can startle and interrupt him from what he was doing. A can or a plastic bottle with coins inside could help divert his attention, when you see he is sniffing and circling around a place or an object and then he start to raise his legs, get his attention immediately followed by giving him command in stern voice like “no pee”. Just be constant on interrupting and supervising him, just do not rant or give punishment that will make his insecure feeling more insecure. Regular reinforcing the normal housebreaking routine will help those dogs who sudden marking, praising him when he do his business on right place. Bring him to his regular pee place whenever he starts marking.

If you see the problem is a newcomer, build the friendship between your dog and the newcomer. Let the newcomer try to give him treats or feed him, let them also have some time to play together. For new baby or new pet, have some fun with your dog while newcomer is around, create positive event between them.

Thoroughly cleaning his marking area inside the house is a must. Dog may pee and pee all over again on that area so you must remove the evidence of the crime completely. Use cleaners with enzyme contents or 50/50 water and vinegar solutions to wash the area, just avoid ammonia based products.

Also make his favorite marking place unattractive to him. Place his eating bowl right on the place where he marks. Let his respected things placed on that area so he will not mess it with his marking like placing the dog crates. Belly bands are also effective solution to control his peeing.

Some severe marking problems are fixed with drug therapy. Dogs with high level of stress or been on bad past like being abused or other similar circumstances, drugs are proven to help. Be sure to ask professional vets and learn everything about drug alternatives and possible side effects before letting your dog in medication.

Australian Cattle Dog / Australian Heeler

Australian Cattle Dog / Australian Heeler / Hall's Heeler/ Queensland Heeler / Blue Heeler / Red Heeler

The Australian Cattle Dog, also known as the Australian Heeler, Hall's Heeler, and the , is a sturdy, compact working dog, well-muscled, powerful, yet very agile. This dog was developed by pioneer settlers in the 19th century to herd cattle on large ranches. The original breed standard was written by Robert Kaleski in 1902 and approved by the Kennel Club of New South Wales in 1903. The breed was first recognized by the America Kennel Club in 1980.
The Australian Cattle Dog is really a relatively new breed and as such, numerous records were kept on its development. The writings of Mr. Robert Kaleski are invaluable for researching the history of the development of the ACD in its native Australia. Robert Kaleski fell in love with the breed at the age of sixteen and spent his entire life breeding and studying the Australian Cattle Dog.
The Australian Cattle Dog was bred to herd cattle in Australia's inhospitable environment. Everything about the breed today - temperament, coat, physical structure, etc - reflects this original purpose.
The precise origins of the Blue Heeler are not known, but they appear to have been a distinct breed as early as 1897. It began when Smithfields were originally used in Australia for herding cattle. They were noisy and bit too hard, so they were bred with the Dingo, a wild dog prevalent in Australia. The resulting crosses were known as “Timmins Biters,” which were quieter, but still bit hard.
Obviously, the breed originated with the ancestral herding collies from England. The breed also finds its blood origins in the Dingo, the Kelpie, and Highland Collie.
A primitive stage of Collie unlike that of today's Border Collies and Smooth Collies, used for herding sheep, were then bred to the Dingo. In 1840, Thomas Hall bred a couple of Blue Smooth Highland Collies with dingoes and got the “Hall’s Heeler.” Then, in the 1870’s Fred Davis bred some Bull Terrier into them to make the dogs more aggressive. These were relatively common as sporting and guard dogs in the late 19th and early 20th century.

The Australian Cattle Dog should be muscular, athletic and substantial in appearance, without any trace of weakness or fragility. However, excessively heavy or cumbersome build is also undesirable as it limits agility, a necessity for any good cattle herder. Along with athleticism, symmetry and balance are also essential, and no individual part of the dog should be exaggerated or draw excessive attention. Even when bred for companion or show purposes, it should have well-conditioned, hard muscles.
The general appearance is that of a strong compact, symmetrically built working dog, with the ability and willingness to carry out his allotted task however arduous. Its combination of substance, power, balance and hard muscular condition must convey the impression of great agility, strength and endurance. Any tendency to grossness or weediness is a serious fault.
The Australian Cattle Dog is a relatively hearty, healthy breed that has an average lifespan of twelve to fifteen years. They are a medium sized muscular dog that stands 17 to 20 inches (43 to 51 cm.) at the withers (shoulders). Their weight range is variant around their general build but on average falls between 30 and 50 pounds (14 to 23 kg). The Australian Cattle Dog comes in two colors: Blue or Red. Their life expectancy is about 12-15 years.
Australian Cattle Dogs are born white with whatever face and/or body patches they will have in later life. As ACD pups age, their blue or red coloring gradually emerges. The correct Australian Cattle Dog coat is what is known as a "double coat". The short, straight outer coat is protective in nature, keeping the elements from the ACDs skin while the undercoat is short, kinky and dense. Australian Cattle Dogs are not year-round shedders, instead they "blow" their coat once a year (sometimes twice in the case of intact females) just before the summer months. While the week or two an ACD is blowing his or her coat can lead to hair everywhere, many people find it preferable to constant shedding.

The Australian Cattle Dog personality is often reserved with strangers and even fiercely protective when they perceive that their property and/or persons are being threatened. The ACD is intelligent, but can certainly often be described as hard-headed and stubborn. Once an ACD has befriended you, they are a friend for life....but that friendship must often be earned. Australian Cattle Dog are often refered to by their owners as "velcro" or "shadow" dogs...because wherever you go, there they are!! Like many herding dogs, Cattle Dogs have high energy levels and active minds. They need plenty of exercise and a job to do, such as participating in dog sports, learning tricks, or other activities that engage their minds. Some individuals find repetitive training frustrating and dull, so owners should aim to make training sessions varied and more exciting in order to keep their dog interested.
The Australian Cattle Dog is an extremely active breed, with mental stimulation being of paramount importance. A bored Cattle Dog is a destructive Cattle Dog !! The Australian Cattle Dog is a social breed that NEEDS to be with "its people". This is NOT a breed to leave chained or penned in the back yard....such isolation will lead to SERIOUS personality problems !! Because the Australian Cattle Dog is an active breed, a firm commitment must be made to exercise. ACDs make excellent running or biking companions although care must be taken not to over exert the young dog. Because of their intelligence, ACDs make WONDERFUL obedience prospects (although their intelligence can actually be a hinderance in this ring also). Australian Cattle Dogs are also known to excell at Dog Sports such as Flyball, Agility and Frisbee competition.
A working, herding breed, the Australian Cattle Dog is not suited to life alone in the backyard. One of the most intelligent breeds, it can become easily bored, leading to serious behavior problems. These dogs need to be part of the action! They are loyal, protective and alert. An excellent guard dog. Brave and trustworthy. Very good in the obedience ring and in herding and agility. Firm training from the start and lot of daily attention will produce a fine and happy pet. It is absolutely loyal and obedient to its master, but it is something of a one-person dog. They are sometimes suspicious of people and dogs they don't know. It can be very dog aggressive, for its dominance level is high. Not good with children except for family members it has known since puppyhood. Some tend to nip at people's heels in an attempt to herd them. If you are buying a pet, avoid strictly working lines, as these dogs may be too active and intense for home life. Australian Cattle Dogs are very easy to train. Puppies are born white (inherited from the early Dalmatian crosses), but the adult color can be seen in the paw pads.

The most common health issues noted by owners were musculoskeletal (spondylosis, elbow dysplasia, and arthritis) and reproductive (pyometra, infertility, and false pregnancy), and blindness. ACD's are also prone to hip dysplasia, PRA, and deafness.

Chow Chow Dog Breeds

Chow Chow Dog Breeds

The Chow Chow, often simply called the Chow, is one of the oldest breeds. Historical artifacts indicate that he may have come originally from the Arctic Circle, migrating to Mongolia, Siberia and China. Some scholars claim that the Chow was the original ancestor of the Samoyed, the Norwegian Elkhound, the Pomeranian, and the Keeshond.

The Chow has been known for thousands of years in China, where the breed was put to work as a hunter, cart puller and boat guard. One Emperor is said to have kept 2500 Chow pairs. One was given to the Prince of Wales, the future Edward Val. Over history, the Chow has been used to hunt wolves, sable and pheasant, and to pull sleds. His fur was used to trim coats. The flesh of these dogs was considered a delicacy in China. Dog is still eaten in China today. This beautiful dog was first brought to England by merchants in the late 1800's. The name probably originated from the pidgin English word "chow-chow," a term used to describe all sorts of miscellaneous stuff brought back from the Far East. The Chow has become very popular in the United States as a companion dog. Some of the Chow Chow's talents are watchdog and guarding.

The Chow is a sturdily built dog that is square in profile with broad skull and small, triangular ears that are rounded at the tip. The breed has a very dense coat that is either smooth or rough. The fur is particularly thick around the neck, giving the distinctive ruff or mane. The coat may be one of five colors including red, black, blue, cinnamon, and cream. Individuals with patchy or multicolored coats are considered to be outside the breed standard. Chows are distinguished by their unusual blue-black/purple tongue and very straight hind legs, resulting in a rather stilted gait. The blue-black/purple tongue gene appears to be dominant, as almost all mixed breed dogs who come from a Chow retain the tongue color. This is not to say, however, that every mixed breed dog with spots of purple on the tongue are descended from chows as purple spots on the tongue can be found on a multitude of pure breed dogs.

The two most distinctive features of the Chow Chow are its blue-black tongue and its almost straight hind legs, which makes it walk rather stilted. Its dense furry coat is profuse and comes in two varieties, smooth coat and rough coat. The most common colors are solid red, black, blue, cinnamon and cream, but it can also come in tan, gray, or (rarely) white. The coat sometimes has lighter or darker shades, but is never parti-colored. The ears are small and rounded and there is a huge ruff behind the head, which gives it a lion like appearance. Its head is broad and its skull is flat. The muzzle is broad near the eyes and narrows toward a black nose without becoming pointed. The chest is broad and deep and the kidney area is short and strong. The tail is thickly covered with hair and is carried over its back.

The Chow Chow is usually well-mannered, but can be willful and protective. Bossy, serious and very independent. They are self-willed to the point of obstinacy. Often a one-person dog, very loyal to his family, though he may act reserved, even with them. If strangers push themselves on this dog, he may become aggressive. This breed can be quite a handful, but it is otherwise polite and patient. Some do not accept leashes and collars easily, while others do not seem to mind. Most Chow Chows like to dominate other dogs, but in contrast, they are quite good with children. If they get to know cats and other household animals when they are young, they will get along with them when they are adults. They must be extensively socialized when very young to combat potential over-protectiveness as an adult. They need firm training right from the start. Their personality is mainly due to their past treatment.
The Chow Chow will do okay in an apartment if it is sufficiently exercised. It is relatively inactive indoors and a small yard is sufficient. Sensitive to heat, but can live in or outdoors.
Chow Chows can be lazy, but need to be taken for a daily walk. Dogs who do not get to go on daily walks are more likely to display a wide array of behavior problems.

The average height of adult specimens is 17 to 20 inches at the withers but in every case consideration of overall proportions and type should take precedence over size. Proportions-- Square in profile and close coupled. Distance from forechest to point of buttocks equals height at the highest points of the withers. Serious Fault Profile other than square. Distance from tip of elbow to ground is half the height at the withers. Floor of chest level with tips of elbows. Width viewed from the front and rear is the same and must be broad. It is these proportions that are essential to true Chow type. In judging puppies, no allowance should be made for their failure to conform to these proportions.

Height: 18-22 inches (46-56 cm.)
Weight: 45-70 pounds (20-32 kg.)
Coat: Thick and coarse
Color: Red, black, grey, cream, fawn or white
Litter size: 5 pups
Life span: 9–12 years

Beware of hip dysplasia. They are prone to suffer eye irritation called entropion, caused by eyelid abnormality; this can be corrected with surgery. Other than that they are generally healthy.

Dog Pregnancy - Signs and Care

Being puppy is the cutest stage of a dog, it's so lovely to see how this little innocent angel moving around, learn to play, eat so well, run around and perform his agilities, and become little cute monster that messes things around. Then we will think about health, petsafe and future. There are still terrible canine over-population problems so it is better to be part of solution rather than to be part of the problem. Responsible owners who want to breed their dogs must pass all required registrations, accreditations, health screening, etc.



A female dog, correctly referred to as a bitch, can only become pregnant if she is bred during her heat cycle. The pregnancy generally lasts about two months or 56 to 69 days from the date of the first breeding, although this period may be slightly shorter or longer. Small breeds may deliver a week earlier while large breeds often deliver later. Over ninety-eight percent of all dogs deliver their puppies without assistance or complications.



For the first three weeks or so of pregnancy, you may not notice any changes in the bitch. Some females will become more demanding for attention, their nipples may enlarge slightly, and some may become hungrier. These are not a guarantee of a pregnancy, but are good signs. Bitches can show the same signs during 'false pregnancy,' a hormonal abnormality, which may occur after a bitch has been in heat. Decreased appetite is usually one of the earliest signs that your bitch might be pregnant. Not all females go through this doggie version of "morning sickness", but a small percentage will eat less during the first few weeks of gestation, usually making up for it later in the pregnancy. Further indication is a sudden decrease in activity, the nipple growth is noticeable, breast material will develop beneath the nipples, which will also increase slightly in preparation for eventual milk production. Behavioral changes such as increase in affectionate behavior or an expressed desire to be left alone. But beware, don’t give any vitamin supplements in the first month of her pregnancy, the birth defects will be develop from too much vitamins A, D and calcium, all she need is high quality diet. No vaccinations should take place during pregnancy, they may harm the fetus. Vaccinations are prior to breeding. Always visit the vet to consult for her condition, from approximate 21-25 days, endocrinological tests detects pregnant dog hormone, relaxin. Puppies hearth beat can be detected after 25 days using ECG but it’s difficult to test their number. X-ray can pick up puppy skeleton from around 49 days and can determine the number of siblings, but X-Ray is not advisable to use because of radiation danger and damage.



In fourth week, the increase in appetite and gaining weight are changes of progress signs of pregnancy, the abdomen will thicken, and gentle examination of the belly will reveal a firm, rather than fat feeling to the area. The bitch should continue to have regular, but not strenuous, exercise to help her maintain her muscle tone and not become overweight. Exercise involves a daily run to make sure all her muscles, including her uterine muscles, are in top condition. She really needs enough sleep on her dog crate, at week 7, it’s advised to increase her meal about 25% and another 25 % on 8th week. Closer to the delivery date, your bitch will probably start to express her nesting instincts, scratching at the floor or in her bed, and displaying signs of increasing restlessness.



During the first stage of labor the cervix begins to dilate and uterine contractions begin. These contractions are painful and perplexing to the dog. She will appear quite uncomfortable and restless - pacing, shivering and panting. She probably will not eat and she may even vomit. Some dogs whine persistently. Others occupy themselves building a nest. Take her temperature rectally twice a day, the normal dog temperature is about 100.3F - 101.3F. It will normally drop to about 98 degrees Fahrenheit, 8 - 24 hours before the onset of labor and she will refuse to eat or drink anything.



During the second stage of labor uterine contractions begin in force. As this stage progresses the placental water sacks break and a straw-colored fluid is passed. Placentas are expelled after each puppy or sporadically during labor. Pups usually appear every half-hour or so after ten to thirty minutes of forceful straining. As the pups deliver, the mother will lick the puppy clean and bite off the umbilical cord. It is important to let the mother do this, if she will, because through this process she bonds with her puppies and learns to recognize them as her own. The rough licking of the mother stimulates the puppies to breathe and improves their circulation.

Ibizan Hounds Dog Breed

Ibizan Hounds Dog Breed

The ancient and enchanting breed, Ibizan Hound, is an elegant and agile breed with an athletic and attractive outline and a ground-covering springy trot. Though graceful in appearance, it has good bone girth and is a rugged/hardy breed. Its large upright ears - a hallmark of the breed - are broad at the base and frame a long and elegant headpiece. The neck is long and lean. It has a unique front assembly with well laid back shoulders and straight upper arm. In this way it is different from most other sighthound breeds in construction. It comes in both smooth and wire coated varieties. It is either red or white or a combination of red and white. Its nose is flesh colored, as are its ears, eye rims, and pads of feet. Its eyes are a striking amber color and have an alert and intelligent expression. The Ibizan may range in height from 24 to 29 inches and weigh from 45 to 65 lbs, males being larger than females.

With his great, upright ears, sculpted head, and sleek lines the Ibizan Hound is one of the most striking of the Mediterranean breeds. Playful, elegant in his athleticism, sensitive and affectionate, the Ibizan Hound is a moderately sized dog bred to hunt small game. He shows great loyalty, but can be diffident toward strangers. He is a good alert dog, but not protective. He is not an excessive barker, nor is he considered shy. One of his most stunning qualities is his sense of play, and with his moderately angulated build he is able to leap and twirl with the grace of a dancer.

This primitive breed's past is shrouded in mystery, as mummified remains and ancient Egyptian artwork indicate that these were hunting dogs valued by the Pharaohs. Artifacts recovered from tombs dating 3,000 B.C. show identical morphology to the hounds of today, yet they disappeared from Egypt, and were thought extinct.

Traditionally they are thought to originate from the island of Ibiza, one of the Balearic Islands off the Mediterranean coast of Spain, where Carthaginian or Phoenician traders brought early dogs from Egypt as early as 800-600 B.C.
The Ibizan Hounds, sometimes called "Beezers" by their fanciers, are quiet, clean, playful and polite. Good with children, gentle, sensible and sensitive. Protective and somewhat independent. They will hold back watchfully with strangers. Once they decide the stranger means no harm, they will relax very quickly. Be careful with small pets such as rabbits, cats and rodents; the Ibizan Hound is bred to hunt these creatures. Cats that are raised with the Ibizan Hound will fit in just fine as part of the "family pack," but it will chase and possibly kill a cat it does not know. As in all breeds, the Ibizan Hound should be well socialized with other dogs, other animals, adults, and children. If you have an adult Ibizan Hound and would like another dog, it is suggested that you get a puppy. Beezers are pack animals by nature, so introducing a puppy to the household is easier. An Ibizan thinks its humans are their pack, so any addition (human or baby) must be introduced slowly. Ibizans are members of the family. They cannot be kept as kennel dogs. They love their humans, are as clean as a cat, and respect the rules of a household. This breed blushes when they get excited, as does the Pharaoh Hound. Ibizans like to learn and do so very quickly. They are trainable, but tend to be willful and get bored easily. Provided they have been properly trained, they can participate in many types of dog sports. These dogs are very sensitive to the voice of their handler and a friendly request will always achieve more than a gruff command. This breed tends to have large litters.

As hunters, Ibizan Hounds are run free to find and bring down small game, mostly rabbits and hares. Working independently or cooperatively in packs, they "give tongue", crying triumphantly, when chasing down their quarry. Their unique structure allows them to rapidly pursue their target over rough terrain, even changing direction in mid-air leaps.

Historically they have hunted in the Balearic Islands: Ibiza, Majorca, Minorca, and Formentura, where they are called Ca Eivissenc, as well as in the Spanish Provinces of Catalonia, Valencia, Languedoc-Rousillon, and in France's Provence where they are called the Balearic Hound, or Podenco Ibicenco.

Temperament
The Ibizan Hound is even-tempered, affectionate and loyal. Extremely versatile and trainable, he makes an excellent family pet, and is well suited to the breed ring, obedience, tracking and lure-coursing. He exhibits a keen, natural hunting instinct with much determination and stamina in the field.
Ibizan Hounds are very intelligent, active, and engaging by nature. They are true "clowns" of the dog world, delighting in entertaining their people with their antics. Though somewhat independent and stubborn at times, they do take well to training if positive methods are used, but will balk at punitive training methods. They are generally quiet, but will alarm bark if necessary, so they make good watch dogs. They are sensitive hounds, and very good around children and other dogs alike. They generally make good house dogs, but are active and athletic, therefore need a lot of daily exercise.

Height: 22-29 inches (56-74 cm.)
Weight: 42-55 pounds (19-25 kg.)

Life Expectancy: About 10-12 years.

Basenji Dog Breeds

Basenji Dog Breeds

A handsome, short, muscular dog who is also known as the African Barkless Dog. "Basenji" means "bush thing" in African dialect. They should not bark, but they are not mute. Basenjis repertoire of sounds range from a pleasing throaty crow to a keening wail made when they are lonely or unhappy. Basenjis are often compared to small deer because of their grace, intelligence and beauty. They are about the size of a Fox Hound, and very proud. One of the oldest breeds of dogs, they are native to Africa where they are used to assist beaters in flushing game out, which are then driven into nets strung up against trees. These dogs were highly prized in Central Africa for their intelligence, silence, speed and hunting power. The Basenji has a short, fine coat that tends to become more course in colder countries, but without losing its gleam. Wrinkled on the forehead, they also have a curly tail that swirls to one side of their body. Known to be much like cats, Basenjis will sometimes clean themselves by licking all over, and are said to be nearly odorless. Basenjis will make good pets as long as they are handled on a regular basis from an early age.

The earliest samples of these dogs were given as gifts to Pharaohs of ancient Egypt. Basenji-type dogs are depicted on the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs and date back to early 3600 B.C. Many details of their origins are unclear, but the Basenji is thought to have come from a purebred dog used by the Pygmies for hunting in the Congo. A pair of Basenjis were taken to England by an explorer in 1895, but unfortunately fell ill to distemper and soon died. In 1937 the Basenji was introduced successfully into England, and around the same time Mrs. Byron Rogers of New York City brought a pair of them to America. A litter of puppies was born, but unfortunately all died due to distemper except for Mrs. Rogers' older male, Bois. A female Basenji named Congo was then brought to the United States from Africa in 1941 by Alexander Phemster of Massachusetts, and soon the two Basenjis produced the first litter of Basenjis to be born in America and live. Soon other Basenjis were imported from England and Canada, and the breed grew in size and popularity in America.
Temperament: Basenjis are intelligent, independent, affectionate but alert. Basenjis are playful, inquisitive, and active. Sometimes aloof with strangers. Puppies must be raised in a home environment with lots of human contact. Some experts feel that the Basenji is an early off-shoot of the domestic dog and hence is only semi-domesticated. Others feel that their high intelligence leads to antisocial and destructive behavior. The Basenji, finding his walk delayed, dug a hole in her couch. Obedience training is a must. All Basenjis should learn the basic commands of sit, stay, heel, and come.

Basenjis generally love children. Since youngsters and Basenjis can be very active, the continuous play can serve to wear everyone out.

High. Depends on dog and owner attentiveness; doesn’t bark to alert. If you are a stranger, you should not approach Basenjis from behind. Does not bark, flushes out prey for hunters, and is very intelligent in which training comes easy.

Health problems in the breed include progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), Fanconi Syndrome (a kidney disease), hemolytic anemia, hypothyroidism, and malabsorption syndrome. PRA is a gradual onset blindness that begins at four-to-five years of age. Fanconi Syndrome also strikes the middle-aged dog. It is often fatal, but with new treatments dogs are able to survive. Both PRA and Fanconi Syndrome are currently under investigation by researchers.
Hemolytic anemia is a known recessive and has a low incidence due to breeder testing of stock. Hypothyroidism can be treated with replacement therapy. Malabsorption syndrome is also treatable and seems to have decreased in occurrence.
Also, they are susceptible to progressive retinal atrophy, intestinal, and eye problems.

Country of Origin: Zaire and the Congo (Central Africa)
Other Names: Congo Dog, Congo Bush Dog, Congo Terrier, Bongo Dog, African Barkless Dog, African Bush Dog, Zande Dog, Belgian Congo Dog, Nyam Nyam Terrier.
Height: Females: 16 inches; Males 17 inches.
Weight: Females: 21 lbs; Males: 24 lbs.

Colors: Black, red, black and tan. There is always white on the chest, feet and tail tips.
Coat: Smooth, short-haired, fine, silky coat. Coarser coat in colder countries.
Life Span: 12-14 years
Litter Size: 4-6 pupies. Female Basenjis usually only have one season a year which will last up to 30 days between August and November.
First Registered by the AKC: 1944
AKC Group: Hound

Tibetan Mastiff Dog Breed

Tibetan Mastiff Dog Breed

The Tibetan Mastiff is descended from the famous Tibetan dogs that were the source of the majority of Molossuses and Mastiffs throughout the world. The ancient Tibetan Mastiff may have been in existence as early as the stone or bronze age. Mollossian dogs accompanied Alexander the Great from Tibet to Europe, and during this period helped found many of today's other Mastiff breeds. Tibet later closed its doors to Westerners, so the breed developed for centuries in relative isolation. In the mid 1800's, a Tibetan Mastiff was given to Queen Victoria of England.

The Tibetan Mastiff is among the largest breeds. A powerful dog with a sturdy bone structure. It is a very large dog with a broad, massive head and a heavy, dense, medium-length coat. The bear-like head is wedged-shaped with a wide, blunt muzzle. The upper lip usually covers the lower lip. The nose is large and generally black. The teeth form a scissors or level bite. The v-shaped, thick-leathered ears hang down. Mature dogs, particularly males, tend to have moderate dewlap. The body is slightly longer than tall and the legs are heavy-boned and powerful. Marco Polo described it as "tall as a donkey with a voice as powerful as that of a lion." The muzzle is lighter than that of the English Mastiff, with an extremely strong jaw. Rear dewclaws should be removed, but front dewclaw removal is optional. The coat forms a heavy ruff around the neck. The hair on the head is short. The plumed tail curls over the back in Spitz fashion. The Tibetan Mastiff is usually black, sometimes with gold or tan markings, though he may also come in chocolate, blue & tan, sable, gold, cream, or red, with or without tan markings. Some also have white markings.

Noble and impressive: a large, powerful, heavy, well built dog, well muscled, with much substance and bone, and of solemn but kindly appearance. The Tibetan Mastiff stands well up on the pasterns, with strong, tight, cat feet, giving an alert appearance. The body is slightly longer than tall. The head is broad and impressive, with massive back skull, the eyes deep-set and almond shaped, slightly slanted, the muzzle broad and well-padded, giving a square appearance. The typical expression of the breed is one of watchfulness. The tail is well feathered and carried over the back in a single curl falling over the loin, balancing the head. The coat and heavy mane is thick, with coarse guard hair and a wooly undercoat. The tail and britches are well feathered.

The Tibetan Mastiff has been used primarily as a family and property guardian for many millennia, and is aloof and watchful of strangers, and highly protective of its people and property.
The Tibetan Mastiff is very protective and territorial. Even-tempered, calm and thoughtful. Dignified and very loyal to its own family. It is by and large loving with children but, distrusts and is reserved with strangers. Brave and fearless when properly socialized. Somewhat strong-willed and very determined, but with a desire to please. Patient and highly intelligent it was bred to take initiative.

As a flock guardian dog in Tibet, it is tenacious in its ability to confront predators the size of wolves and leopards. As a socialized, more domestic Western dog, it thrives in a spacious, fenced yard with a canine companion, but it is not an appropriate dog for apartment living. Still, the Western-bred dogs are generally more easy-going, although somewhat aloof with strangers coming to the home. Through hundreds and hundreds of years of selective breeding for a protective flock and family guardian, the breed has been prized for being a nocturnal sentry, keeping would-be predators and intruders at bay, barking at sounds throughout the night. So, leaving a Tibetan Mastiff outside all night with neighbors nearby is not usually recommended.

Like all flock guardian breeds, they are intelligent and stubborn to a fault, so obedience classes are recommended since this is a strong-willed, powerful breed with great size potential. Socialization is also critical with this breed because of their reserved nature with strangers and guarding instincts. They are, however, excellent family dogs and are unlikely to cause any harm to children.

Health Problems
Prone to hip dysplasia, skin conditions, thyroid problems, ear infections, and an unusual genetic problem called Canine Inherited Demyelinative Neuropathy (CIDN). CIDN symptoms usually appear at 7-10 weeks. If a puppy has this condition, he will die before 4 months of age. There is no test currently known for the disease and carriers can only be identified through mating. Ask the breeder about CIDN history in their lines and avoid lines with evidence of the disease if you would like to breed your dog.

Weight: 100-200 pounds (45-90 kg)
Height: 25-31 inches (60-79cm)
Coat: double coat, long hair with thick inner coat
Activity level: Moderate
Learning rate: High
Temperament: Companion, aloof and protective
Guard dog ability: Very High
Watch-dog ability: Very High
Life span: 10-14 years